Patzcuaro
There are two generally accepted ideas regarding the meaning of the word "Patzcuaro". One is "place of the black dyeing" and the other is "place of temple foundations". The city was developed from the beginning as a religious center for the Purepecha people and the early inhabitants thought that Patzcuaro may have been the doorway to heaven for their gods. Modern visitors tend to think its a different kind of heaven: peaceful, idyllic, relatively untouched by modernity and endlessly fascinating for that reason. Oh, and did we mention that it is also just beautiful there?
The town of Patzcuaro is situated on the eastern shore of Lake Patzcuaro, today one of Mexico's largest and most famous lakes. The town gained its current importance back in the year 1540, when Bishop Quiroga transferred his bishopric from Tzintzuntzan to Patzcuaro, thereby making Patzcuaro the capital of Michoacan. This colonial city since lost that distinction, but has thrived since that time, maintaining its architecture and its character. Neoclassical and baroque religious monuments are everywhere. The interiors of the churches are elaborate and awe-inspiring. Many of the city's buildings are adobe and painted white, with deep red at the base of the walls to match the red tile roofs. The effect is striking. The plazas are grande, with large and venerable trees. And the fountains are clean and photo-worthy. The town is truly enchanting and though it seems that norteamericanos are visiting and moving there in larger numbers lately, the town hasn't lost its character or charm.
There is so much to see and do in the town of Patzcuaro, its hard to know where to start. So we'll start the way we always do in a new Mexican town...in the center. The Plaza Vasco de Quiroga is a sprawling grassy area, with crisscrossing walkways, stone benches and a beautiful fountain with a likeness of Bishop Quiroga in its center. It is said that the Bishop himself planted the trees which now tower over the plaza and give it a forested feel. This plaza is considered one of the most beautiful in the Americas and it doesn't have a church or religious building on its border, which is unique in Mexico.
The Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Basilica of our Lady of Health) is probably the most important church in Patzcuaro. It is not on the main plaza, but instead two blocks away up the hill. Once a pre-Hispanic ceremonial center, the church was built by Bishop Quiroga in order to supercede the pagan ways of the locals with Catholicism. This cathedral held a central role in the area until it was replaced by the cathedral in Morelia in 1580. Today the church is a beautiful representative of those Colonial times, with a simple exterior and an elaborate interior, including a beautiful statue of the Virgin of Health. The statue was made of maize paste in the 16th Century and is visited by many pilgrims from Mexico asking for health. The Basilica is also where Bishop Quiroga's remains are buried.
The Museo de Artes e Indutrias Populares (Museum of Popular Art & Industry) is located in a former school founded by the Bishop Quiroga. He established the school to prepare local Spanish boys to be ordained as priests and to teach local indigenous people a trade, as well as reading and writing. This museum has an extensive collection of lacquerware and is the first of its kind in Mexico. Be sure to notice the stunning floor, which is made of a combination of flagstones and animal bones.
The Casa de las Once Patios or House of Eleven Patios is located just half a block from the Vasco de Quiroga Plaza. The structure was built in 1742 for Dominican nuns and is today the home to many small craft shops selling a variety of regional handicrafts. The most interesting ones to visit are the lacquerware shops where you can see the artisans demonstrating their skill. Be sure to visit these stores in the mid morning if you can, as many of them close down for afternoon siesta or supper.
Palacio de Huitziméngari is a palatial residence that once belonged to Prince Antonio de Huitziméngari, the son of the last Purepecha ruler and godson of the first viceroy of New Spain, Antonio de Mendoza. The facade may be a big unremarkable, but the interior patio is filled with flowers and surrounded by arches. Several indigenous artisans have their stalls set up here. The Palacio is situated on the main plaza.
The Plaza Chica is formally known as Plaza Gertrudis Bocanegra, formerly the Plaza of San Agustin. It is the second most important plaza in Patzcuaro. Close to the crafts market and food stalls where local foods are sold, it is a heavily visited plaza by the townspeople. In the center is a bronze statue of Gertrudis Bocanegra who was a local heroine during the War of Independence.
The Ex-Convento de San Agustin was built in 1576 and is now used as Patzcuaro's Public Library. This building is a must-see for visitors to Patzcuaro for its extensive mural painted by Juan O'Gorman. The mural recounts the story of the key players in the history of Michoacan, including the indigenous Purepecha indians, the conquistadors, the priests and the most important figure of local history, Vasco de Quiroga. The Calzontzin Theater is located next door, built over the remains of an old monastery.
There are a number of other lovely buildings to visit in the Centro of Patzcuaro. The Sanctuary of Guadalupe has four sculptures of the original seven representing the Seven Virtues. El Hospalito, the Little Hospital, was built by the Franciscan order and has a 16th Century Renaissance-style entrance with a 19th Century altar. The Templo de San Francisco holds a maize-paste 16th Century statue of Christ. The doors of this church are quite spectacular. El Calvario is a little chapel built in 1666 on the site of a yácata or Purépecha pyramid that held the remains of the Emperor Tariácuri. And El Humilladero, or Place of Humiliation, is a chapel which holds a sculpture of Christ on the cross which was commissioned by Bishop Quiroga in 1553. He wanted travelers who arrived or left town to worship at this cross. Today, the cross can seen in this lovely chapel, also called the Chapel of Christ, which is located on a tree-lined street ideal for strolling.
There is much more to Patzcuaro. For dining suggestions, try our Eating In Patzcuaro page. For hotels and other lodging accommodations, go to Lodging in Patzcuaro. And be sure to check out the information on the other towns around Patzcuaro, such as Santa Clara de Cobre or Erongarícuaro.
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